Alright guys, so you’re dealing with weak hood struts and your hood keeps trying to come down on your head while you’re working under there. I get it – it’s annoying as hell. The thing is, you don’t always need to run out and buy new struts right away. I’m gonna show you a quick trick that’ll keep your hood propped up safely until you can get around to replacing those struts properly.
Understanding the Problem with Weak Hood Struts
So here’s what happens – your hood struts are basically gas-filled cylinders that do all the work of holding your hood up. Over time, they lose pressure and stop doing their job. You’ll notice your hood doesn’t pop up like it used to, or worse, it starts slowly dropping down while you’re trying to work on your engine.
The thing is, this doesn’t happen overnight. Hood struts can lose pressure unexpectedly due to a few reasons – age, extreme temperatures, or just normal wear and tear. Basically, the seal inside the strut breaks down and the gas leaks out. Once that happens, you’re left with a heavy hood and no support.
⚠️ Warning
A falling hood can cause serious injury or damage to your engine components. Never work under a hood that’s only supported by weak struts – you need a backup support method.
Most people don’t realize how dangerous a failing hood strut actually is. We’re talking about 30-50 pounds of metal that could come down on your head, hands, or crush expensive parts in your engine bay. That’s why you need a solution, even if it’s temporary.
The Pin Trick for Temporary Hood Support
Alright, here’s the trick I use when I need a quick fix. What we’re gonna do is basically create a mechanical lock that holds your hood strut in the extended position. It’s super simple.
🔧 What You Need
- Electric drill with bits
- Pin, bolt, or nail (1/8″ to 3/16″ diameter works best)
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Marker to mark your hole location
Here’s what you do: First, prop your hood all the way open – use a 2×4 or something to hold it up while you’re working. Then look at your hood strut. You’ll see it’s basically two tubes – an inner rod that slides into an outer cylinder.
What we’re gonna do is drill a small hole through both the outer cylinder and the inner rod when the strut is fully extended. Real quick – make sure your hood is at the height where you want it to stay. Mark your spot with a marker, then drill through. Use a drill bit that matches whatever pin or bolt you’re gonna use.
🔧 Pro Tip
Drill slowly and use cutting oil if you have it. The strut is usually made of hardened steel, so take your time. And make sure you drill straight through – you want that hole to line up perfectly on both sides.
Once you’ve got your hole drilled, just take your pin and stick it through. Boom – there you go. Your hood strut now has a mechanical stop that prevents it from collapsing. The pin takes all the weight instead of relying on the gas pressure that’s already leaked out.
❌ Common Mistake
Don’t use a pin that’s too small or flimsy. A regular cotter pin or small nail won’t cut it – you need something substantial like a grade 5 bolt or a solid steel pin. Remember, this is holding up your entire hood.
The beauty of this trick is it’s completely reversible. When you’re ready to actually replace the struts, you just pull the pin out and unbolt the old strut. No permanent damage to anything.
When to Replace Your Hood Struts
Now look, this pin trick is a temporary fix. It works great for keeping you safe while you’re working, but you should still plan on replacing those struts properly. Here’s when you know it’s time to bite the bullet and get new ones.
If your hood won’t stay up at all without the pin, or if the strut is visibly leaking oil, you’re past due. Also, if you see any rust or corrosion on the strut body, that’s a sign it’s on its way out. Basically, if you’re having to use the prop rod that came with your car (you know, that metal stick), your struts are already done.
The thing is, hood struts are wear items just like any other part on your car. They’re not designed to last forever. Most manufacturers figure they’ll be good for 50,000 to 75,000 hood openings, which sounds like a lot until you realize how often you actually pop your hood.
You’ll also want to check both struts even if only one seems weak. They usually fail around the same time since they’ve both been through the same number of cycles. Replace them in pairs – trust me on this one.
Choosing Replacement Hood Struts
When you’re ready to replace your hood struts, you’ve got options. You can go OEM (original equipment manufacturer) or aftermarket. Both work fine, but there’s some differences you should know about.
OEM struts are gonna be the exact same spec as what came on your car from the factory. They’ll fit perfectly and you know they’re gonna work right. The downside? They’re usually more expensive. You’re looking at anywhere from $40 to $100 per strut depending on your vehicle.
💰 Money Saver
Aftermarket struts can save you 30-50% compared to OEM parts. Brands like StrongArm and Tuff Support make quality struts that’ll work just as well as the factory ones. Just make sure you’re buying the right part number for your specific year and model.
Here’s what I look for in a quality hood strut: solid construction with no visible welds or weak points, a good warranty (at least 1 year), and reviews from other people who’ve actually installed them. Read what other guys are saying – if everyone’s complaining that the struts are too weak or too strong, keep looking.
| DIY Cost | Shop Cost | You Save |
|---|---|---|
| $50-150 | $200-350 | $150+ |
Installing new struts is honestly one of the easiest jobs you can do on your car. Most struts just pop off with a clip or have a simple bolt holding them on each end. Takes maybe 15 minutes if you’ve never done it before. There’s no reason to pay a shop $150 in labor for something this simple.
The pin trick works great as a temporary fix, but don’t skip replacing those struts when they’re worn out. Your safety is worth more than saving a few bucks.
One more thing – when you’re shopping for struts, make sure you’re getting the right force rating. Hood struts are measured in Newtons (N), and you need to match what your car originally came with. Too weak and your hood won’t stay up, too strong and it’ll be a pain to close. Check your vehicle’s service manual or the label on your old strut for the correct specs.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best brands for hood strut replacements?
Alright, so for aftermarket struts, I’ve had good luck with StrongArm and Tuff Support – both make quality stuff that holds up well. If you want OEM, stick with whatever your car manufacturer specifies. The thing is, even cheaper brands from places like Amazon can work fine if you check the reviews and make sure other people with your exact vehicle are having good results. Just avoid the super cheap no-name brands that don’t have any reviews or warranty backing them up.
How can I prevent hood strut failure in the future?
Basically, you can’t prevent it completely – struts are gonna wear out eventually. But you can extend their life by keeping them clean and lubricated. Wipe off any road salt, dirt, or grime that builds up on the strut rod. Also, don’t slam your hood shut – close it gently. And if you live somewhere with extreme temperatures, that’s gonna wear them out faster. Park in a garage if you can. Real quick though – even with perfect care, you’re still looking at replacing them every 5-7 years or so.
What are the common signs that a hood strut needs replacement?
You’ll know your struts are going bad when your hood doesn’t pop up all the way by itself anymore, or if it slowly drops down while you’re working. Another sign is if you see oil leaking from the strut – that means the seal is shot. Also, if your hood is harder to close than it used to be, or if one side sits higher than the other, your struts are probably mismatched or failing. Basically, if you’re reaching for that prop rod every time you open your hood, it’s time for new struts.
How much does it typically cost to replace a hood strut at a dealership?
At a dealership? You’re gonna get hit pretty hard. They’ll charge you $200-350 total, and that’s including parts and labor. The thing is, the parts themselves are only $80-150 for the pair, so you’re paying $100-200 just for labor on a 15-minute job. That’s why I always say do it yourself – this is one of the easiest repairs you can do, and you’ll save a ton of money. Even if you go to an independent shop instead of the dealership, you’re still looking at $150-250 total.
Is the pin trick safe for long-term use?
Look, it’s safer than working under a hood with weak struts and no support at all, but it’s not a permanent solution. The pin trick is great for keeping you safe while you wait to get new struts or if you need your car working right now. But you’re putting stress on the strut body in a way it wasn’t designed for, and over time that hole could enlarge or crack. Use it as a temporary fix – maybe a few weeks or a couple months max – but don’t drive around like that for years. Replace those struts properly when you get the chance.
