Alright guys, so you’ve got a Dodge Caravan and the horn just stopped working completely. You’re probably thinking it’s something simple like a blown fuse or maybe a bad horn, right? Well, on these Dodge Caravans, the horn system is way more complicated than you’d think. It’s not just a simple switch that closes a circuit. This thing goes through the cruise control buttons, into the instrument cluster, and then to the fuse box under the hood. I had a customer come in with this exact problem, and what we found is definitely not what you’d expect. I’m gonna walk you through how this system actually works and show you what really caused this horn to stop working.
Reading the Trouble Codes
So the first thing we did was plug in the scan tool and pull codes. This Caravan came back with a P2339, which is basically saying “horn switch stuck.” That’s your first clue right there. Now, you might be thinking the horn button on the steering wheel is stuck, but hold on – it’s not that simple on these vehicles.
🔧 Pro Tip
If you’re seeing P2339 or P2338 codes, don’t just start replacing the clock spring like a lot of people do. Read the live data first to see what’s actually happening in the system.
The thing is, these Dodge Caravans have this weird setup where everything is interconnected. The horn circuit doesn’t just go from the button to the horn like you’d expect. It’s tied into the cruise control switches, the instrument cluster, and the TIPM – that’s the Total Integrated Power Module, which is basically the fuse box under the hood.
How the Horn System Actually Works
Let me break down how this horn system actually works, because once you understand the circuit, diagnosing the problem makes a lot more sense. When you press the horn button on your steering wheel, that signal doesn’t go directly to the horn. Instead, it goes through the cruise control buttons first, then to the instrument cluster, and finally the instrument cluster tells the TIPM to activate the horn relay.
Yeah, I know – it’s ridiculous. Why they designed it this way, I have no idea. But that’s how these Caravans are set up, especially the 2008-2016 models. So when you’ve got a horn that’s not working, you’ve actually got multiple potential failure points in that circuit.
The horn circuit on these Caravans goes through the cruise control buttons, into the instrument cluster, and then to the TIPM. It’s way more complicated than it should be.
Checking Live Data for Horn Lockout
Alright, so here’s where it gets interesting. We went into the live data on the scan tool and scrolled down to find the horn status. What we found was “sound horn on lock.” Basically, the system thinks the horn button has been pressed continuously, so it locked out the entire horn system.
If the horn sounds for more than 45 seconds straight, the system will completely lock it out as a safety feature. That’s exactly what happened on this vehicle. So right now, even if the horn itself is perfectly fine, it’s not gonna work because the system has disabled it.
The live data showed us that the system was receiving a constant “horn pressed” signal, even though nobody was touching the horn button. So we knew something in that circuit was sending a false signal to the instrument cluster.
Testing If Your Horn Actually Works
Here’s a real quick test you can do at home to figure out if your horn is actually working or if it’s just locked out. All you gotta do is disconnect your battery – just the negative terminal – for about 10 seconds. Then reconnect it.
If the horn starts blaring as soon as you reconnect that battery, then you know two things: one, the horn itself works fine, and two, something is sending a constant “horn pressed” signal to the system. That’s exactly what we found on this Caravan.
⚠️ Warning
Before disconnecting the battery or working on anything related to the steering wheel, make sure you wait at least 10 minutes after disconnecting the battery. The airbag system needs time to discharge, and you don’t want that thing going off in your face.
Now, if the horn doesn’t sound at all after resetting the battery, you might have a different issue – could be the horn itself, the relay, or wiring. But if it does sound and you’ve got that P2339 code showing the horn switch is stuck, keep reading because I’m gonna tell you what actually fixed this one.
Replacing the Cruise Control Switch
So here’s the kicker – and this is what you would never think would be the problem. The issue on this vehicle was the cruise control button switch on the steering wheel. Yeah, the cruise control buttons. These things are tied into the horn circuit, and when one of those buttons gets stuck or starts sending a false signal, it tells the instrument cluster that the horn is being pressed.
❌ Common Mistake
The customer on this vehicle had already replaced the clock spring before coming to see me, thinking that would fix it. Not only did it not fix the horn problem, but now his traction control light is on because the steering angle sensor got messed up during the clock spring replacement. Don’t just start throwing parts at it – diagnose it properly first.
The fix for this is to replace the complete cruise control switch assembly on the steering wheel. It’s Mopar part number 68007042AA, and you’re looking at about $40 to $90 depending on whether you go OEM or aftermarket. To replace it, you’re gonna have to pull the airbag out, which means disconnecting the battery first and waiting for that system to discharge.
🔧 Tools Needed
- OBD-II scan tool with live data capability
- Socket set (8mm, 10mm sockets)
- Torx drivers (T20, T25)
- Trim removal tools
- Multimeter for testing
The whole job takes about 1.5 to 3 hours if you’re doing it yourself. You’ll save a good chunk of money doing it yourself versus taking it to a shop, where they’re gonna charge you $100 to $125 per hour in labor on top of the parts.
| DIY Cost | Shop Cost | You Save |
|---|---|---|
| $40-$90 | $200-$500 | $110-$410 |
When you’re torquing everything back down, the steering wheel horn pad retaining bolts should be torqued to about 22 to 27 inch-pounds. Don’t overtighten them – you can crack the plastic housing.
💰 Money Saver
Before you buy a new cruise control switch, try cleaning the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. Sometimes corrosion or debris can cause these switches to send false signals. If cleaning doesn’t fix it, then go ahead and replace the switch.
If you’re dealing with other electrical gremlins on your Dodge, check out our guide on fixing reduced engine power issues with throttle position sensor codes – those can be just as frustrating to diagnose.
The bottom line is this: if you’ve got a horn that’s not working and you’re seeing P2339 or P2338 codes, don’t overlook those cruise control buttons. They’re part of the horn circuit on these Caravans, and they cause way more problems than you’d think. Do the battery disconnect test first to see if the horn works, check your live data to see what the system is reporting, and if everything points to a stuck horn switch signal, replace that cruise control switch assembly. That should get you back up and running.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the most common causes of a Dodge Caravan horn not working?
How can I reset the horn system on a Dodge Caravan?
Are there any specific tools needed to diagnose a P2339 or P2338 code?
What are the steps to replace the horn switch on a Dodge Caravan?
Can a faulty cruise control button affect the horn system?